White Noise

   This will be an all stainless and aluminum (white metal) trike. I named it White Noise for all the static I plan to cause when its finished.

   It will likely be around 302 to 350 CID with twin turbos and an all aluminum block. I hope to put around 800 horse power to it when the turbos come in and still get 25 or more MPG. This should be easy to do as the trike will only weigh around 800 - 900 pounds.

   As with my first trike, this one looks like a pile of parts laying floor. This is a four bolt 350 Chevy block with a 4L60E Corvette transmission, differential and rear suspension. The Corvette transmission will need a bell housing to bolt the engine and trans together. There are several that will bolt to the transmission, but they have different engine mounting patterns. LS engines, V6 engines, and the standard Chevy pattern. This one is part number 24206579 and is cast in over the bump for the starter and fits the early engine blocks, big blocks included. Also, the stock C5 Corvette differential is limited slip from the factory, all of them.

   I chose this set up for many reasons, one the trans is overdrive and will work with a carbureted engine with a controller. It can also be shifted electronically with push buttons (like paddle shifting). There is no axle to place and the differential is directly bolted to the transmission and has limited slip. The suspension is easy to place on the frame and has disc brakes. The parts are easily accessible now thanks to the Internet, and any replacement parts can be gotten at the local dealer or parts house. With my other trike, I was always looking for parts that I had to order. Not this time.

Upper left, #24206579, 95-97 4.3, 5.0, 5.7 engines with 6 bolts, (the one I have)

upper right, #24200877, 98-up LS style engines with 7 bolts, (cut out at starter)

lower left, #24220855, 3.5 liter engines

  This is the C5 Corvette rear pan with 6 speed trans, differential, and suspension. This set up is basically the same from 97-04. There is a difference in the mounting of the differential in newer models as I will show later. 

   This is the differental from a 97-04 C5. The mount goes under the cover with the "X" below the two slots. This one is used on the 4L80E transmission.

   This is the mounting of a 05 and newer differental. The mounts are on each side to help prevent twisting. This is mated to the 6L80E transmission.

   Here you can see the mount attached under the "X" and the dumb bell counter weight on the left. I have removed them both as I plan on ridged mounting the engine and transmission in my frame as I build it. My reason is that it will keep the frame stiff and make the engine,trans, and frame as one unit. With a properly balanced engine, there will be no vibrations to the frame that can be felt. Also you can see, my differential is a 2.73:1 gear ratio, I picked this for MPG and top speed.

   Fitting it all together, is not as easy as it looks. I wanted to shorten my trike up from the last one I built and this is about 18" shorter. Do not be fooled by this picture, I found out later that I had the suspensions placed on the wrong sides. AKA, the brake calipers go to the front!

   Here it sets with my new Micky Thompson HR1 18" x 15.5" wide wheels. Micky gave me the wheels because they no longer make a tire wide enough to cover the 15.5" width. But I can get a set of Vee Rubber Monster tires for a motorcycle that will cover them, or just split the rims down to 13" as I plan to paint them anyways to match the frame. Notice that I still haven't figured out the suspension is backwards with the brake calipers still looking rearwards

What it looks like with my big arse sitting on it. 6'-1"

   It's really wide, even after narrowing the suspension by 18", those big wheels push it right back out to 72" lip to lip on the rims!

   The board the rims are on is 8 foot shelf board! GEEEZZZZZ, may have to rethink those rims.

   Here, I finally figured out the suspension was backwards and swapped them around. The first thing I noticed was that the wheels moved forward about 6", which is OK, But I really wanted the wheels to set back more like they where when I had them backwards. That's not going to happen due to the CV axles and the location of the lower A-arms under the trans.

   At this point, I started to match up the rear suspension with the trans in order to pull a few measurements.

   After pulling a few measurements, I had these brackets water jetted to link the lower A-arms together and tie them into the frame rails. Because I did not measure twice and cut once, these brackets will not work. I left out several details when measuring, like the steering rods and trans mounts. I also forgot that the A-arms sit at an angle. When these where cut, I had the holes at the same height and there-for put my bushings in a bind and I almost never got the bolts back out of brackets. This was a $370 mistake that my wife reminds me of often. Measure twice and cut once!!

   In this drawing, you can see the pitch of the lower A-arms on the C5 stock suspension. I did not take into account each end of the bushings being at different heights. I spent close to $400 getting these measurements, GM was not very helpful after a month of dealing with Customer Care and still no info and I finally found most of it at the SAE site.

   This is the pattern that I based the last four drawings on. It is slightly different than the stock C5 pattern due to room under the trike and ground clearance. But as you can see, the difference between measuring once, and measuring twice, is another $275 for the new parts.

Before, lower front control arm mounts

   After, lower front control arm mount. (front outter)There are now two different ones, this one is the forward outter.

Looking at the amount of clearence to the trans

   These could make for some exhaust exits, if they did not heat up the rubber bushings in the A-arms. These will attach the lower and upper frame rails together later in the build and are 2' random lengths.

General idea on how its suppose to go together.

   Here, you can see that I have placed a 2 x 4 under the suspension and the rims are still sitting on the shelf board. This should give me about 4" of ground clearance after the tires are installed, depending on the tire size. This will be the lowest point of the trike and it sits between the wheels. Humps, dips, or speed bumps will not be a problem because the tires will raise the trike as I go over them. Straddling them my be a concern and I have thought about putting a skid plate under here.

   This is something I drew up before I started collecting parts and I thought I'd share it with you. This is close to the shape I'm looking for with the 4" stainless tube frame. The lower rail will be will be closer to the ground, and the back bone is not going to connect to the lower rails as I have drawn here. The front forks will be very similar to the design drawn with a 26" front rim. I plan to hide my radiator and battery on this trike, can you guess how or where? This will be a naked trike like my first one with no body or panels to hide anything. I have hated the look of a radiator on a bike or trike because it looks like a billboard and destroys the clean looks of the machine, and this is where I hope to put a new spin on V8 powered trikes. So stay tuned.

   This is a forward shot and you will notice the Corvair fan. I was planning to use it to push air over the radiator, but found a mush better and smaller way to do it. I would look cool though if it was done correctly, I just do not want that much weight spinning by a belt that could break and leave me stranded.

Rear shot with the suspension in place for measuring. I think it looks like an F1 suspension here and I'm looking to mount my shocks over the transmission horizontally and use bell cranks to connect them to the A-arms. Aftermarket coil over shocks for a C5 are around $1800 for the rear!! I can buy a standard set for around $500 and build the bell cranks and linkages for under $200 and they will look much better.

   I picked up a set of junk heads yesterday to get the mock up of the engine underway. I need to get my headers, oil pan, starter, intake, and a carb so I can get started on the frame rails.

   I also used my son's front wheel from his bike that he busted doing some sort of stunt. It is a 26"er and gets me close to what I wanted to see. The mop handle is at 45 degrees and is about where the real forks will go. Like it sits here, the trike has a 94" wheel base. My first trike had 109",but the engine and weight have now been shifted to the rear and the front forks will now look correct for a trike like this.

  3/4 view looks good too, even though the rear wheels are still over 6 feet across and that front wheel is only 1-1/2" wide. Not all stretched out looking as my first trike.

   Here is the neck and some other pieces that Ray at Rat Hole Cycles did for me. He is great at what he does and can work from your hand drawings. If you have a project and want some clean water cutting parts or machine work, contact him at ratholecycles@yahoo.com he will do you right.

   Well here are the corrected plates for the rear suspension that Ray and Dave cut. After moving back to our home town in Virginia, I've had little time to work on the trike in the last few months, but when the parts fit like they did here, you don't need much time to make it work. These plates fit perfectly together with no binding anywhere and the tie rods now have a mount that's secure.

   End view

   Time to start collecting the 4 inch frame tubes and get the top suspension arms tied in and hopefully self supporting. I still have a few things to check, but its looking very solid and I'm ready to get this frame built.

   Today I worked on cutting the C5 drive shafts down. I removed eight inches from each one and tack welded them together. I will be sleeving them later on after the frame begins to take shape. The shafts are 1-5/16" o.d. and solid, they also appear to have a mild case hardening to them.

   Here's what a C5 rear suspension looks like after narrowing it 16".

   Rear starting to fill up.  

   This is a look at how tight the fit is with the suspension parts, the bushing at the bottom of the lower A-arm is the shock mount. The shock will run between the upper A-arm mounts to the lower, missing the drive shafts with little room to spare. This is why I will most likely mount the shocks horizontally between the frame rails and use bell cranks to connect them.

   The engine mounts in place so that I can figure where the lower frame rails will fall.

   The mounts are tacked together and I still need to get a 1-1/4" sch 80 piece of pipe to place the bushings into. The pointed end will be cut and trimmed to fit once I get the pipe and that will locate the frame rails for me.

   Tyler pulling wrenches, no he ain't a saggy bottom boy, he just hasn't filled into them yet. Its been a pretty good day and everything went together smoothly for the end of the world. Mayan Calender ends today.

   Today I got the motor mount bushing installed. It required a 1-1/4" sch 80 piece of pipe and the i.d. is 1.27". The bushings are Energy Suspension and have a 9/16" sleeve. I will have to get the part numbers, I threw away the package during our migration back home.

   From center to center, the bushing are 21-1/4". You will notice that they are just outside the width of the heads. This is so I can remove the engine and trans from the frame. I learned this from my last trike and it worked great. All I need to do is remove everything from the outside of the engine, lift the front of the trike, and roll the frame back leaving the engine and trans sitting. It use to take me about 30-45 minutes to remove the engine and trans from my old trike, this one will take a bit longer as I will have to remove the CV axles first and that means taking the rear suspension apart, removing the CV's, putting the suspension back together, and then removing the engine and trans. The inside of the frame rails on the bottom will be slightly wider than the width of the heads. The valve covers will also have to be removed in order to get the engine out as it was with my other trike. Its the only way to keep the frame narrow and not wide like other trikes I've seen.

   Now here is where my dilemma comes in to play with the design of the trike and how the frame needs to be built. The trike above has a perfect stance and this is the look that I wanted for my trike. BUT, I also like the look of the trike below.

   With this design, I can build a better front suspension that will provide a super ride and much better suspension geometry. This design on the other hand will provide better locations to put things like the radiator and fuel tank, but will have to be covered as this one to look proper.

   In studying the suspension that the Blastoline Brothers built for this trike, I noticed a few things that need to be changed for this to be a perfect trike suspension. First the ball joints need to be on the center line of the brake rotor and not to the side of it as pictured, reason being when the brakes are applied, the brake acts as a lever on the ball joints and wants to pull the wheel so the the trike will turn to the right. (Anyone who has ridden a motorcycle with a single disc brake has seen this in action, the rotor is off the center line of the steering axis and when the brake is applied, the forks twist and the handle bars will turn to the opposite of the rotor. Sport bikes have two rotors to combat this twisting of the forks and its the only reason for the second rotor, plus they look more performance orientated. Some people think its to increase the braking force and we all know that one rotor will lock the front tire up and cause you to slide the front wheel out from under the bike. To increase the pressure on a single brake caliper, you just need to increase the piston size or change the linkage points on the lever.) The ball joints need to be above and below the rotor in the center line of the rotor with about 1-3 degrees of rake between them and the ball joints need to be in the center of the tire(s) where it meets the road. As you can see in the picture above, they are not and the owner has stated that it is tough to steer even with its 2:1 steering ratio. Next is that steering bar hanging off the side. That can be eliminated as well by using another "J-arm" in the middle of the two main J-Arms that pivots on the lower J-Arm's pivot points. That will eliminate the bump steer and clean up the design so that no steering mechanisms would be so evident like this one. It would look like three fingers holding the wheel and the middle one would move back and forth to steer the machine. CLEAN. I already have the design layout and have the parts list to build it. The only complected part is building the J-Arms and spindle, and it's really not that much work at all. But the gearbox and steering rods may prove to be a challenge from the handle bars to the steering J-Arm and I'm pretty positive I have that worked out to keep it simple too.

   Now back to my dilemma? The trike above with forks was what I wanted my machine to resemble and I have figured out how to hide the radiators, fuel tank, alternator, and battery box while keeping the bike naked. I HAVE NOT found a way to push air over the radiators when they are hidden, the fans I located to do this will not last for more than a few days with long periods of use such as a 300-1000 mile trip. That is my only limitation at this time with this design. The Hub Center design would not be any more complicated than the forked design, but I will need to change some of the ideas that I had and locate other parts (not a problem) to complete it. This is the point that I mentioned the design you started with would change before you finished it.

   I'm really leaning to do the Hub Center design and my biggest problem will be making the front rim for it. No matter what I do, the front rim will be very costly to build. If I do as the Blastoline Bros. and take a 700 pound chunk of aluminum and machine it down ($6-10K and that's not going to happen) or buy a billet motorcycle wheel blank and cut the hoop off it and have a center spun from an aluminum sheet to get the offset I need ($1-4k), its still a lot of money. But the up side at this point for the Hub Center design is that the money I save in custom built radiators ($1200 each) and the design work to the frame for them (another $2000) and time saved to build it with the hidden radiators, could all be focused on the Hub Center suspension. Every thing else would very easy to buy and install. I like my first design and am not above doing the work to build it, but I also want to be different and the Hub Center design will accomplish that and provide a better handling machine without all the stresses on using a motorcycle style set of forks. Plus my wife would be able to take it for a ride because it would be easier to steer for her, in fact I could even put power steering on it! This is something I will have to think on before I buy the tubing for the frame. I'll make up my mind on this here shortly and get started with the frame build.

UPDATE 3-18-2013

   I have now decided to build White Noise with hub center steering, and while working to design the suspension, I have come to the realization that its come down to compromises for me. I do not want to build the trike with a $6000 front wheel as it would defeat my other purpose of making it easy for others to also build. Until I make a million dollars or win the lottery, I have to compromise.

   I wanted to build it with a spindle that has no camber, the ball joints would be above and below the brake rotor and follow a center line thru the tire contact patch on the road, and thru the brake rotor to prevent brake pull and several other ascetically reasons. That would require a rim that would use a 24-26 inch tire and I would need to build that rim with allot of backspace to clear the brake caliper. I know that I cant afford to build that rim at this time and I'm sure most of you cant either, so I have decided to use my current theme after looking at other types of spindles, and purchased a right rear C5 spindle and brake setup. It has 8 degrees of camber stock and the tie rod location on the spindle is in the correct place that I want. This again keeps the parts simple and I will live with the camber as it is.

   I have found out that the C5 spindle and brakes will require an 18 inch rim at the minimum for clearance and that causes another problem for me. I want to use a motorcycle tire for the front to keep the nose thin and sleek. I can buy a motorcycle tire in 18,21,23,26, and now 30 inch and that was why I wanted to build the rim and spindle for the front but its the cost that stops me. Corvette does not have a convenience spare that I could use in 18 inch, so now what.

   I know that Jaguar has and uses the same bolt pattern as the C5 and even has a convenience spare that is 18 x 4 inches and would work great (maybe). But they are far and  few between used, plus costly. By chance I went and took the spare from my 2011 Challenger (as a mock up) and guess what, its an 18 x 4 incher and the register (the big hole in the middle of the rim) is even the correct size for the C5 hub. All I got to do now is drill the new bolt pattern in the hub for the Dodge rim and move the studs!! Talk about lucky. After drawing out a full scale model of the assembly (Dodge rim, C5 hub and brakes) I found the camber line meets the road slightly to the left of the center of the tire contact patch. This is also great news as it will allow me to build that 26 inch rim later and still have correct (actually better) geometry in the front suspension if I want to. Their will be some brake pull with this current design, but it should be less than a few pounds force at the handle bars.

   So I have some compremizes that are not what I wanted but will still be safe and work correctly together and I'm happy with that. Now Im working on the J-arms and suspension along with steering mechanisums. I will get those pics on here as soon as I can . I just bought a new laptop and have been trying to figure out this Windows 8 system. I have also just installed Autocad Inventor with the hopes of learning it enough in order to help with the design, and for me to better use my time while stuck in a motel for weeks at a time. Been useing my drafting table at home and thats slow work too.

Ok so here is the trike currently as it sits in the shop.

Fitting the suspension together and tieing it to the frame.

   As i stated above, I compromized with the front steering and suspension by purchasing a C5 left rear assembly and then had it redrilled for the Dodge bolt pattern of 5 on 115 mm.

   Here its mounted on the spare tire and rim of my Challenger. I will be putting a motorcycle tire on the rim later on before it hits the road.

  I purchased some 2 inch 304 sch 10 stainless pipe and did not like the looks of it. This is 3 inch DOM 304 stainless pipe and looks much better for the frame. I also plan to use the pipe as the fuel tank as it will hold 20 gallons at this time. I have to use all the space I can in order to keep it simple. Looking good so far.

   Above are some of the pics that I snapped of the frame being welded, my back is still sore from bending and twisting to get to all the welds. 40 plus just to get the lower frame partly complete. The trike will now roll on the rear wheels as the suspension brackets are completed.

Jen took some pics of me welding the frame and thought I should show some to you guys.

Heres a look at the suspension in place.

   Here's a pic of the Gale Banks Twin Turbo system I just purchased for the trike. It is a draw thru system and should keep things easy. It is old skool, out dated technology, but Gale made 1100 horsepower with it on 110 octane gas and a tuned engine in 1983 and ran 240 mph at Bonneville in a Firebird with a stock Chevy four bolt block. The old Rayjay turbos will be replaced later with a newer set from Turbonetics (Scratch that, after talking to them on the phone and being treated as a 14 year old kid, I'm going to spend the extra money and get these Rajays rebuilt. They where only wanting me to buy a custom built setup from them and refused to even talk to me when I asked a question. 9 questions and the answer to each was; "Yeaaaa, we can build that for you" I think the guy was stoned and I got so pissed at his answers, I told him to get pha-q'd). $1700 for EACH turbo, and I still got not one answer to any of my questions.........Can you say, Astro Glide?

  Back to the system, the best part of this system is that it bolts to a standard four barrel intake and I can turn the system to point forward like shown or turn it around so it looks backwards from this. I plan to use it as shown. (More info on the Rajays in the Reference Info section)

   The bad part is I spent the money on this and was suppose to buy my suspension parts from Ray at Rat Hole Cycles this week. Now I got to call him and explain my deal.

   Well after months of searching for the parts and 30 year old books to rebuild this set up, its finally been cleaned and assembled. The two turbos are completely new inside as I was able to track down a new set with different housings in California for $300. They had just been rebuilt in 1989 and put on a shelf sealed in plastic complete with new compressor wheels, seals, and bearings. I can now say that I probably have one of the few remaining set ups like this, complete from carb to intake with correct parts. When I called Gale Banks about information for it, the engineer said there was one on the shelf, and it was the only one he had ever seen. It took me a month alone to find the 30 year old Holley intake that was not damaged or the threads stripped out. This set up requires an intake with both the Quadrajet and Holley carb bolt patterns with an exhaust cross over, and the thermostat in the center of the intake. Not an easy find today, but an early Holley Street Dominator with the EGR passages was perfect. The exhaust cross over under the intake is need to keep the intake from freezing up (yes, a draw thru turbo set up will freeze just like a piston engine airplane due to the pressure drop and the cooling effect of the fuel, that's why airplanes have "carb heat") and is also used as a balance tube between the left and right exhaust sides to maintain an equal pressure on the turbines so they do not pulse due to the 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 firing order where two cylinders on each bank fire back to back, 8-4 on left bank and then the 5-7 on the right bank. Believe it or not, the banks or sides of an engine where to be looked at as if you where sitting in the car looking forward, not from looking at it from the front with the hood up. If you look at the picture below, you will see two 1/2 inch pipe plugs below the carb, they are for oil to circulate under the carb to help prevent freezing as well and to help cool the oil. Old School technology, simple but effective.

    The Holley carb has been modded for the turbo set up by linking the power valves to the lower intake so the engine does not lean destruct once the boost begins to build. I still need to find my distributor and ignition set up which will likely be the MSD 7 AL. It will retard the timing as the boost builds to prevent detonation and I will install a boost regulated water injection nozzle(s) just before the turbos as was done in the 70's & 80's with this system to further prevent engine knock. (I forgot to set the date on the camera)

   Here i have installed a GM throttle position sensor on the choke side of the Holley. This is for the controller needed for the 4L60E Corvette trans axle. It was rather easy because I used the parts from a throttle body injection unit from and old Suburban. The parts bolted right to the Holley primary throttle shaft and I just made a simple bracket to mount the TPS.

   The brass nipple on the metering block was the ported vacuum for the vacuum advance and has now been reworked to provide the vacuum signal externally to the power valve. Without this, the carb would not get the boost signal and the engine would run lean. The reason is the turbos are between the carb and intake. This causes a constant vacuum on the carb as it was designed for, but on the pressure side of the turbo, there can be either vacuum or boost pressure depending on the rpm of the engine. With out this mod, the carb would not know the engine is building boost and the power valve would never open due to the constant vacuum from the turbos pulling on it. The power valve works on higher or lower vacuum. A normal engine will have 18-20 inches of vacuum at idle and 6-8 inches at wide open throttle. This is the reason they put huge carbs on naturally aspirated engines or multiple carbs in order to lower the vacuum at wide open throttle and make the engine more efficient by trying to eliminate the vacuum on the intake.

   Forward shot of the system.

   At this time, I'm still trying to get the parts from Ray for my front suspension and was working on the turbos in the motel room while I'm working in Texas to stave off cabin fever. Life is creeping back into the picture and me and Jen have started a custody battle for her son and has been draining the trike funds for the past several months along with the bank account. Hopefully in the next month we will know if it works out for us as her son really wants to come live with us and I'd love to have him at home. This is the reason I have not updated the trike or site, I really have nothing to add until we get past this and can get back to a normal home.


   After several months of waiting to get home, I was able to make the trip this weekend for Thanksgiving. The parts fit perfictly with no issues thanks to AutoCad and making detailed drawings. And we did get custody of her son finally.

   The "J-Arms" pivot nicely and the front hub rotates effortlessly with the arms in any position. You can see in the pic here where I made the correction to the side plates where the black lines are drawn. I notched the lower part of all the plates in order to lower the whole assembly by 1-1/2 inches and move it rearward by 2 inches. This was done in order to lower the suspension and the upper frame rails in order to get a better look for the trike.

   Looking at the J-Arms, they seem to be very thin and that was the look I'm after. The plates for the J-Arms are 1/2 inch thick (1 inch combined) and I had them water jetted in order to keep the rigidity of the metal. I could have cut the plate myself with a torch and grinder for much less than I paid, but the heat changes the metal structure and in effect softens it. Think of anealing aluminum before working it, you pass a smokey flame over it first to make it soften up. So that is why I paid to get them water jetted and not plasma or torch cut.

   Yes, the wheel is not centered. This is a different wheel than what I made the drawings from. But I have many options that can be applied to the front wheel design now as I left myself enough room to install larger diameter wheels with different offsets as needed. This is a 17" spare from my wifes Charger and I had originally used the 18" spare for the Challenger which has a different back spacing. Either way, I have the option of using a motorcycle tire or a car tire with the 18" rim size. Deside on that later as the build goes on.

   Notice how the lines from the J-Arms run and flow into the side plates. That was the great thing about getting the AutoCad as I could see it in real space as I drew it out on the computer.

   The next question everyone has been asking is answered here. The trike is around 11 feet 4 inches nose to tail. That's not bad and I think its a good length. If it's too short the front wheel is over powered by the two rear wheels and the trike wants to push in what ever direction it's pointed in regardless of the in put from the front wheel unless it has a lot of weight on it. If it's too long, then it just looks funny and you loose the sleek effect. The length of my trike as is right now is 2:1 versus the with of the rear end which makes a very appealing isosceles triangle. The Ancient Egyptians thought that this triangle was a symbol of power and perfection, but everyone focuses on the 3-4-5 triangle they where famous for in the pyramids.

   I didn't get as far done to the frame as I wanted to and its all just tacked together for now. I did spend a few days working on other things around the house and resting from a surgery I had a few days before which slowed me down, but the trike is just shy of being a rolling chassis with the addition of the shocks and that's my next project. Saving for the shocks, radiator, and rear tires.

   As for how I plan on steering the front wheel, I have a few options on the table at this time and will continue with the frame and other things that need mounting first. If it works out right, I plan to use hydraulic steering which should really clean the front up not having a bunch of linkages and gear boxes, but its not going to be easy for me to get everything to work together as some of the items I'm looking at are from boats and heavy equipment and no one has done anything like what I plan to do. So I'm back in no-man's-land again with researching, finding, doing the math, making calls, and looking for other ideas.

   I also didn't take pictures before I left, the upper frame rails are cut and there are several braces that I installed which are not in the photos above. I didn't think about it until I had left, and I was in a bit of pain from doing things I should not have been doing at the time. Hopefully in  few weeks I can get some better pictures if I can make it home for Christmas for a day or two.

   HAPPY HOLIDAYS and I wish you all a MERRY CHRISTMAS and a better New Year to everyone. We all need it.


   While I was looking through the site, I happen to see a good lesson to share with you all.

   I noticed the amount of time that has pasted since I started this en devour, a year and a half as seen in the above photos so far. A project like this always takes time when you are fighting everyday life and the wants and needs of others. This is my therapy for being away all the time to provide for my family. This is what I do when everyone else is not pulling the dollar bills out of my wallet like Al Bundy on Married With Children (The Best Show Ever). I look at all the time and work that I've put in to this so far and it doesn't seem like I've moved forward very much, but I have made a lot of progress for my particular build. You may get farther faster, but, patience is a virtue. It takes time for us when you live at our/my level of the pecking order in life. DON'T GIVE UP, NEVER QUIT YOUR DREAMS. Machines like this will live long into the future, and one day may be a historical foot note in many peoples lives, just as I remember the first time I saw the Michigan Mad Man's (E.J. Potter) V8 bike on the cover of a bike magazine. I sold my first and only Harley, a Canary Yellow 78 Electro Glide low rider with a 1340 and one of the last with both electric and kick start that I worked so hard for, for half price a few days later to start the Deimos build that took me seven years to finally ride. I have told my wife 50 times I was going to quit this trike build, but I somehow find another way to keep building. If you start building, please don't stop until you cross the finish line. I learned a long time ago that other people are watching you, even when you think you are alone in the shop, people still see you. Make an impression.

   If you hesitate or turn backward while under fire, you'er not a Fighter - you'er a "Quitter:"

   and the Devil, himself, hates the person with a rubber backbone. He smells bad burning.

   Napoleon Hill

   Long before Boss Hoss...........there was E.J. Potter

   This is what started me to build Deimos. The raw power of a screaming twist throttle V8. I hope to go visit his shop which has this bike on display in the front window when I get White Noise on the road.

   Long before there was Rocket Trike or Tim Cotterill's Rocket Trike II..............There was E.J. Potter.............Thanks E.J.